My Travel Map!

My Travel Map!
Now in London!

Dec 5, 2012

Best night EVER!!!

So, I'm in London!

This morning when I got on the tube, there was a newpaper open to a random page on the seat next to me. So, I looked at it...and it was talking about the World Premiere of Les Miserables in Leicester Square at 5:45, a red carpet event! So...I decided to go!

Best decision EVER!!! I saw all kinds of celebrities!!! I got Anne Hathaway's, Hugh Jackman's (twice!), Russel Crowe's, Eddie Redmayne's, and Amanda Seyfried's autographs!!! I also saw Helena Bonham Carter! I saw a bunch more, but can't name most of them! It was amazing!!!

I got Amanda's autograph because I yelled for her! She was switching theaters, as the movie premiered at two theaters, and I called for her, "Amanda! Can you sign?!" And she looked at me! She made eye contact with me! But she was looking at me like, I'm sorry, I can't. So, then I said, "Please?! Please?! Please?!" And then she nodded!!! She came over and gave me her autograph!!

It was an amazing night! It was also a long night! But I am so jazzed now! It was fantastic! I loved it!!! I had so much fun!

Nov 22, 2012

Giving Thanks


          So, it’s Thanksgiving back home. This means that today is a day to reflect on your life and what you’re grateful for. On the train yesterday, I was working on my reflection paper, so I was reflecting on my life, especially how I’ve changed and grown up since getting to Europe. In doing this reflection, I’ve realized a lot about how grateful I really am.
          I’m most grateful for my mom. And for our relationship. We’ve always had a close relationship. I’ve always taken it for granted though, because it was just how it was. During, and after, my first week in Italy, when homesickness and a fear of the unfamiliar. But, while in Italy on my own, I realized just how special our relationship is, and how important it is for me to use it and maintain it. Mom really helped me with my homesickness and loneliness in Italy, and I am unbelievably grateful to have her for my mom, and to have this relationship with her.
          I’m also grateful for the rest of my family. Once again, until Italy, I never really realized how important they are to me. Missing my birthday with the family, I realized how much traditions like that mean to me. And now, missing Thanksgiving, I want to be home with the family, and their AMAZING food, more than ever! My family is amazing. They’re so supportive and caring, and they’ve always made me feel like I can do anything. So, I’m grateful for them and their support.
          Next, I’m grateful for my boyfriend, Dusty. He’s very supportive of me, and he pushes me to do my best, though not always in the best way for me. He’s also super loving and caring. And, it means a lot to me to have him there for me, and have him waiting for me at home, anxious to hug me and see me again, and he makes me so happy, so I can’t wait to see him again!
          I’m also grateful for all of my friends, as they’re always there for me when I need them.
          Finally, I’m grateful for this opportunity. Here in Europe, I’ve learned a lot about myself. I’ve learned a lot about volcanoes, which is a chance for me to further my career and education. I’ve gotten to see and do a lot that most others don’t have the opportunity to see and do. And I’m grateful for it. I’m thoroughly enjoying my time here and all that I’m learning.
          So, now that I’ve told you what I’m grateful for, and why…it’s time for you to stop and reflect on your own life. It’s so humbling and amazing to stop and reflect on what you’re grateful for. I want everyone who reads this to think about it, and admit it to someone or write it down, because it’s also clarifying. And I feel like I’ve grown up and matured a little more in writing this post.
Happy Thanksgiving!

Nov 21, 2012

Prepare to Party...


          So, I took a train to Rome, then to La Spezia, then to Levanto. In just reaching the area of Levanto, I was in awe of the beauty of the coastline! I was so excited to be arriving! In part, because it meant I was going to be with my friends, who speak English and understand me when I talk! (Unlike most Italians…) But I was also excited for the new scenery, to celebrate my birthday, and because this meeting marks the start of our month of free travel!
          On arriving at the Levanto station, I wasn’t sure how to get back, and really didn’t feel like trying to figure it out with how heavy my bag was, so I took a cab to the hostel, It was very nice to not have to walk. Then, I called my teacher and Dennis came and helped me figure out room type stuff, as the reception was closed. While I was changing into shorts, most of the girls that were already in Levanto showed up, so I got to actually go to my room, drop my stuff off and claim my bed! Jess and Kay wanted to go to the post office to send packages home, and I still had a postcard to send, so I joined! It was a lot of fun wandering through the town for the first time with Jess, Kay, and Liz, especially after being on my own for so long! After that, we came back to the hostel for some internet time.
          That first night (November 6th), we ended up eating as a full group, minus a couple members that hadn’t arrived yet, some of whom joined late. Then, a bunch of us went out drinking, kind of as a celebration of my birthday, at least in my eyes, but pretty much just to go out. I had two small glasses of lemoncello, and I was drunk…apparently that stuff has a really high alcohol content…whatdaya know? But, I had Mallory who was my designated walker, so I didn’t fall or trip on the walk back to the hostel. I went to bed pretty happy, so it was a good night.


Cyan, DJ, and I out drinking!
          The next day was the first day of one-on-one meetings with Dennis. I signed up for this day, so spent most of the day milling around, relaxing, other than my meeting, which went swimmingly, if I do say so myself! Around 1, Jess, Kay, Dennis, and I went to lunch at a little pizzeria nearby, which was super cheap with amazing quality! I was quite pleased! That day though, I started feeling more and more distant from the rest of the group as a whole. So, I started thinking that I must not have bonded with them as well as I had thought in Paris, or on the first night in Levanto. I talked to Mallory about it as we walked to the beach and strolled along it, and she comforted me, like a good friend, saying it was probably my imagination and people do like me and all of that. We had lots of fun walking the beach and looking at the rocks there, and collecting sea glass, before we returned to the hostel, where I borrowed someone’s iPad as my computer refused to connect to the internet after the first night, and registered for classes!
          As I was registering, as we were supposed to be meeting at 5 and my registration was at 5, Dennis came and hollered for me, telling me to hurry along. So, as soon as I finished, I ran upstairs to join the group. After I sat down, Dennis called order, and said that they had a surprise for me…they got me a birthday cake, made me a second volcano birthday cake, and found me a rock on the beach that everyone signed! That’s why I was feeling so distant, they were all working on this surprise party! I was completely in shock! And I was thrilled! The bought cake was amazing, but we didn’t cut into the volcano cake that day. After finishing the first cake and the Christmas beers that Sean bought the group, we headed out to a winetasting before dinner. We had so much fun at our group dinner and the winetasting, or at least I did! That night was one of my best since I’ve been in Europe, it was amazing!


The Christmas Beer
Me and my two birthday cakes!
Sarah, Jess, and I eating the milfoil cake! (Cake of 1000 layers!)
          So, in regards to that, I need to thank Sean again for the cakes, as apparently it was all his idea! So, Sean, if you’re reading this: thank you so much! You made my birthday week amazing!
          The next day, Mallory, Liz and I went on the open and near part of the Cinque Terre hike. It was absolutely stunning. We hiked for most of the day, eating lunch on the hike. We also found these weird little “peach-berries” as we dubbed them, and we really wanted to try them, but they were red, so we decided to play it safe…until we saw someone else pick some and eat them, at which we rushed to a tree to try them too! They were pretty good. Mallory loved them, where Liz and I each had only one, she had like ten. So, naturally, we decided that if they were poisonous, and that lady had an immunity to them, or had no idea, Mal would be the first to die, giving Liz and I time to get to a hospital, if we even had enough to be affected. They weren’t poisonous, so it was all good.


Liz, Mallory, and I on an overlook at Cinque Terre! Gorgeous!!!
The "peach-berry"
          Friday, November 8th, was departure day. Everyone packed up and departed, which was pretty sad, at least for me. It was also exciting, of course, but I loved spending time with the group again, and was sad to see us split up. I had a couple chores to do before I took off though: I had to ship a package full of rocks back home and take care of my birthday rock. So, I went to the post office first. I sent it home via boat, and it was only 61 Euro, despite the fact that it was 10 kilograms! So glad to have that weight off my back!
          Then, I needed to take care of my birthday rock. So, what do I mean by that? Well, in collecting the rock that the group signed for me for my birthday, they knew I couldn’t carry it through Europe, so they talked and said that I should sign it too, and then leave it on the beach in Levanto, thereby leaving our group’s mark in Levanto! So, I went to the beach, and found a place to put it, before saying my last goodbye to Levanto and catching a train to Venice!


"Ralph da Rock", my birthday rock!
My birthday rock in its new home!

Skype 101


          Sunday, I was invited to dinner at Boris’ home. So, early afternoon/late morning on Sunday, he and Ida came over, and spent a little bit with me at i Rustici playing with Mimi, as Ida loves cats! And Mimi’s a baby, therefore unbelievably adorable! Then, we went to their home, where Catherine made a delicious dinner with real potatoes in it! Of course, that wasn’t the meal. It was a French meat dish with potatoes under the meat, but I loved having plain potatoes again! After dinner, Boris and I discussed the presentation we were planning.
          I had talked to Ian, my advisor at UWRF, about Boris giving a presentation to the geoclub…and when he talked to other UWRF geology professors, it evolved into Boris taking over a geology 101 class over skype! So, now Boris and I needed to create a presentation and question sheet for the class, which was Thursday, November 1st. I offered to make it for Boris, if he gave me his old powerpoints and videos. Then I could pick out the parts that I thought were best for a 101 class, and merge them together, and take it off his hands. I spent all that week working on the powerpoint and my abstract. I felt so much pressure, and was sure there was no way I could accomplish all that I wanted to!
          But, Boris and I got together at INGV on Thursday a couple hours before the class, and we finished the powerpoint up, fixing little issues that I’d been having, and emailed it to Ian, who actually got it and downloaded with plenty of time to spare! Then, he taught a class in room 200 in the Agricultural Science Building in River Falls, WI from Catania, Italy! It was SO COOL! I was on a total high after that! I was justhappy! I got to see all my professors and a bunch of the geoclub people I’ve been missing, and I got to be on the big screen and all the little screens of room 200! It was awesome!

My powerpoint!
Boris and I on the screens in room 200
Boris and I on the screens in room 200
          The next day, Friday, Boris was going on an excursion with some of his friends, acting as guide, so I got to tag along! This excursion is one that Boris and his friends created, that begins in Mascali, the only town completely destroyed by Mt. Etna. So, I learned a lot, and saw a lot of new things…including the road to nowhere! This is a small stretch of an old major road that was cut off on both ends by the same lava flow. So, it’s just this random stretch of road in a forested area, that stops and ends there. It was fun to see! The Mascali Tour ended with a winetasting at Gambino Vini, and this time, I actually got to meet Boris’ friend, as well as go into the area where they make the wine and hear about that.
          Saturday was my birthday celebration with Boris, Catherine, and Ida. We did homemade pizza margherita and exchanged pictures, started watching the first Harry Potter movie, in French, and Boris gave me a book! That actually made three! It was an excellent day! I thoroughly enjoyed my time with them, but then it was late and time for me to head home, leaving the next day for packing.
          Monday, my birthday, Catherine and Ida brought me to the train station to leave for Levanto. I really appreciate all that Boris and Catherine did for me. I enjoyed getting to know them, and Ida. And I really will miss them, as I do now. But, off to new adventures!


The $1000 Meeting


          So, after mom left, I was immediately looking at my professor coming for his site visit. He had emailed us earlier to remind us about the importance of our meetings, and informing us that these were, in fact, $1000 meetings! So no pressure! Haha, right. I was nervous and did my best to plan things out for him, so that he could learn and see as much as possible. Boris and I talked before his arrival and got at least one day figured out.
          Tuesday morning (October 23rd), Boris and I went to the airport to meet him and pick him up, and immediately, Boris and Dennis were bonding over coffee. The whole time he was here, Dennis was soaking up knowledge! After coffee, the three of us went back to the office and Boris and I showed Dennis around. Then, Boris had meetings to go to, so Dennis and I talked about plans for the rest of his site visit, and about my project and how things were going with it. Finally, we went back to i Rustici, my home in Trecastagni and checked Dennis in.

Dennis and I in the control room
          That night, Dennis and I went into town to pick up some amazing roasted chicken for dinner. We talked while we ate outside my room, on my little patio. He encouraged me to submit an abstract to the Posters on Capitol Hill presentation. He also told me I had a great project with tons of information, and there was a lot I could do with my project in the future, which was great to hear!
          The next day, we got to ride along with Salvo and an associate into the field, to take some gas measurements, learning lots about gas emissions on Mount Etna and how they affect the people. It was very interesting…and then it started REALLY raining. It was down pouring, and the streets were like rivers! It was insane! So, we only stopped once, instead of twice, and went to lunch early. We had our lunch at a favorite restaurant of the volcanologists, but there was an anniversary party there, which Dennis and I thoroughly enjoyed! They kept making random couples in the group kiss, and kiss properly! It was hilarious and so entertaining to watch! And most impressively, I tried mushrooms! I didn’t like them, but I tried them!

Salvo and I while Salvo was fighting with one of the gas instruments
          That night, Boris took Dennis and me to dinner with his family in one of their favorite restaurants. I had amazing pizza margherita, deciding I could eat something safe like pizza after trying mushrooms at lunch. I also taught Ida, Boris’ 7-year-old daughter, to play tic-tac-toe! And, to finish off the evening, we had some lemoncello, or lemon liquor, which is my favorite alcoholic beverage! It tastes like the sweet coating of a lemonhead! AMAZING!!!

Catherine enjoying watching Ida and I play tic-tac-toe!
Ida won!
          The two days, Thursday and Friday, were relaxation days for me, as Dennis left and Boris was busy. And they were so nice. Although, I spent a lot of time working on my abstract and thinking through the poster I’ll hopefully get to present to members of Congress in the spring. The Posters on Capitol Hill presentation is a poster session for undergraduate research to show members of congress the importance of funding undergraduate research, so hopefully I get to teach them all about Mt. Etna! I decided a poster on all of my research would have too much information, and so be too difficult for me to create, especially for my first professional poster for a poster seminar!
          Oh! And, as far as I can tell, my $1000 meeting went great! Yay!

Nov 10, 2012

Birthday Tugs!


          So, the fifth was my twentieth birthday. Usually, I get very excited for my birthday, and make a big deal of it, and, of course, celebrate it with my friends and family. This made this birthday hard for me. Not only do I not get my normal birthday cake, nor do I get to celebrate with my friends and family back home, nor do I get to see my twin cousin (we were born the same day of the same year, and I’ve always called her my “twin cousin”), but it was a travel day, so I couldn’t even celebrate on the day with my new Italian friends or European traveling friends. It was a very disappointing birthday for me. And a very lonely one. It was pretty much just a long day of traveling, just like any other.
          Until I met an Italian boy in his 20s that spoke English while waiting for a ferry. We never learned each other’s names, but we were both going to Rome last night, him to return home, and me as one leg on my journey to meet the Semester Abroad: Europe group in Levanto. He and I talked and joked and had a good time together while waiting for the ferry, on the ferry, and while waiting for the train to Rome. We found food and drinks at the Villa San Giovanni train station and we found our platform together, where we sat and talked for another hour or two.
          On the ferry, I told him it was my birthday, and he showed me an Italian birthday tradition. While we have birthday spankings, they have birthday tugs. They grab each ear lobe and tug them, every other ear, and count to your new age. So, he gave me my 20 birthday tugs! It’s nowhere near as good as a birthday cake with my mom and aunties and cousins (most importantly my twin cousin), but considering I’m an ocean away from them, it was the best I could have hoped for. So thanks to this kind young man, for making my birthday much brighter and less lonely, and for giving me my birthday tugs!

Mom in Napoli

My first day Naples and I start off with a tour of the city.  I was go to Pompeii but the tour company switched on me.  So a tour of the city it is and an earlier start too.  I was to be at the Theater at 8:15 and according to Erin it was, maybe, a half hour walk.  So I find my way out of the 4 Seasons and now the big, big door is open.  I head towards the theater and now the goal is to find a diet cola prior to the tour.  The bar/pastry shops are open and I find a Coke Zero.  My day is now VERY good!  I find the theater and the area is just beautiful and rich in so much history.  The tour company and I find each other and into the van I go. 

It is difficult being in a country that you do not understand the language.  The van picked me up and I knew I was in the correct van but the driver spoke to the other couple in Italian and not in English at all.  I had no idea if we were picking up other people, or if this was the tour, or what was happening.  Eventually we did meet up with another van with Americans on it from a cruise ship with a guide that speaks English so all was well.  The tour was short but very nice and informative.  I got the lay of the city and figure out what I wanted to see and do. 

Most of the rest of the day is just spent exploring and watching people.  I enjoyed stopping at the cafes with the outside seating and having a glass of wine with my meals and just soaking it all in.  After lunch, I was trying to find a monastery and I got myself totally turned around.  If you saw these streets you'd understand: not one of them straight and the majority of them not being longer than just a couple of blocks.  So I stopped for directions and they were "no, no walk, train!  Up...you go up." Finally realized that this place I was looking for was on the hilltop while not more than a mile, it was all uphill, steep uphill.  But to find the station was to go this way for a block then left and around this piazza, then stay right, etc.  I thought no way I would find this but I was enjoying walking so I just walked in that general direction and I actually came upon it. 

So up I went and immediately upon exiting the station, a man, upon seeing me, told me the fort was this way and pointed.  I laughed and asked if I looked that confused.  Hearing my accent, he asked which part of the United States I was from.  He said he would show me the way as we chatted.  His family is actually in the cameo business and he showed me his family's shop and there was his brother making them out of coral shells. Very interesting and fun to see. 

One of the things that amazed me the most was that all the people came out at night.  Not just the young, but entire families.  People running errands, people shopping, people socializing with each other.  The other thing that I am still trying to really understand is what is a typical work day? And what's up with these really long lunch hours (typically 1:00 - 4:00) where a lot of shops and establishments close during these times. 

My second day in Naples was actually spent on tour.  They brought us first to Pompeii.  It was a two hour tour so on the shorter side but it gave me an impression what Pompeii was all about.  The city was actually very large and very advanced but they really didn't know that Vesuvius was a volcano.  They believed it to be just a mountain so they had no idea what the preliminary signs meant or what they should do.  I asked our guide if the area has an evacuation plan now.  She indicated yes, the various cities do but no one really knows what the plan is.  People all assume that there will be signs and time to escape.  I hope they are correct as this is a very populated area.

The people of Pompeii built their city with streets going north/south and east/west and with slopes so they could wash away the dirt and sewage by removing the plugs in the fountains and allowing the water to flow through the streets and wash away the filth.  And they figured out how to control the water pressure in the water system to allow it to flow properly throughout the city.  They had "fast" food places where they could purchase ready to eat food.  They had a "red light" district and symbols to help the sailors in from the port to find it.  The Forum area was for pedestrian traffic only so they actually put up vertical stone pillars to prevent the carts to enter the area.  Just a few of the things mentioned on the tour.

Our next stop was actually Mount Vesuvius.  A very different volcano than Etna.  After a hike to the top, about a mile, you can see the crater: basically a big hole in the mountain.  It looks very dormant: not very much visual activity.  I believe there are one or two fumaroles but that is about it.  But the longer she remains dormant, the more explosive she will be.  Vesuvius was much larger than it is now.  Now there are actually two craters but earlier there was just one gigantic cone that encompassed both craters and it was much taller.  When she last erupted, I believe in 1944, she lost a lot of her cone and created the second cone.  (This part may or may not be correct, says Erin…but I can’t actively remember, so I can’t actually make a correction for mom here, and would hate to correct her and be wrong.)

Tonight I had to move out of the 4 Seasons and to the Ramada Inn.  While the Ramada was very nice, it was by the train station.  The night life or the friendly/family pedestrian traffic didn't exist.  I went out to look for food but quickly turned around as the streets were dirty, dark and fairly deserted.  My recommendation anyone traveling to Naples is to stay on Via Toledo and enjoy the flavor of the street.  

Nov 6, 2012

Etna with Mom!

Wednesday, October 17th

Evidently Erin would like me to continue to blog.  For the next two days, we both will contribute to the blog, each both contributing our expertise.  So here it goes.... Exploring Etna was incredible, awesome, amazing and just plain fun!!!  There is my expertise!

Ok - I will add a little more to it.  On Wednesday, it was just Erin and I.   We left around 8:30 in the morning; Etna ended up not being too far away. It was a nice sunny day and had some clouds around Etna but over all good.  Boris, in giving us directions said go up, then keep going up.  That basically describes it. We just kept climbing and climbing.  As a side note that there were many people were parked along the roadside and they were collecting chestnuts and mushrooms, both very popular here on the island.  On this day, we took one of the switchbacks and we popped out of the clouds and it was totally sunny and clear!  The clouds, fluffy and white, below us.  It was an incredible view from the car. I'm used to seeing from a plane but not in the car!



There is this little tourist village at the base: restaurants and shops plus the cable car.  We purchase our tickets not only for the cable car but for the all-terrain vehicles up on top.  This is the 4th cable car built on this location: all the others being destroyed by lava. Each cable car lasted only 10 years or so before being destroyed.  This cable car is in its 8th year. Ummmm... Makes you wonder. So as we go up, you see where the old lava flows were.  Volcanic ash covers everything but then there are areas like rivers where you see the old lava flows.  The lava is the thick and chunky kind.  It moved very slowly.  So the cable cars bring us very high on the mountain and ends.  There is a shop and restaurant there.

So, what mom means when she says the lava is the thick and chunky kind is that it was aa lava. This kind of lava is gas rich and very viscous, or sticky, so it does, as she says, move very slowly. This type of lava is very typical of Etna, at least as of the past 100 years. You see, Etna has been changing in its activity style for the past 100 years or so. While it was once very similar to Kilauea on Hawaii, it is now much more explosive, and each of its eruptions does something new, to surprise the volcanologists working on it.

From there, we take the all-terrain vehicle up the switch-backs still getting closer to the top.  But we are prevented by law to go to the top as it is not safe.  It can change from day to day.  They gather us and show us this partial building that was covered with lava except for this partial side. You can witness steam escaping out one of the windows.  Then we headed to one do the lower craters and it too had steam escaping.  The guide explained that this was once active but now the lava tube is now sealed off so it will never erupt from this site again. 

It’s the conduit that is sealed off. Not the tube. Silly mom. Anyway, this is true of all of the flank cones, or cones on the sides (flanks), on Etna, of which there are over 300! Each of them had a conduit, or something to connect them to the magma chamber, which was active while they were erupting, but which became extinct after the cones eruption finished. So, none of the flank cones on Etna will ever erupt again.

Erin was very interested in all that he said.  He had a new best friend for the next 20 minutes.   He was very gracious to her and truly appreciated her interest.  He also told us that we could walk to the March 4, 2012 lava flow, as long as we stayed on the path.  So we were off exploring, looking at the various coloration of stones and what the lava flow looked like. 

I loved going up to the March 4th flow! It was fantastic! I’ve never seen a lava flow that young! This flow was part of the series of very violent and short eruptions, or paroxysms, that formed the new southeast crater. This flow, if I remember correctly, was formed from a fissure opening along the base of the new southeast crater. I’ve seen videos…and it looks SO COOL!!! I wish I had been there!



Then it was back down to the cable car area. We grabbed a quick bite for lunch and then down we went to the bottom.  It was sad to leave Etna, not knowing if I would be back.  We did a little souvenir shopping and then it was back home.  It was a completely awesome day and was so happy to have shared the experience with Erin.  Be watching for our Christmas card as no doubt, you will see an Etna picture on it!



Later that night, Erin heard from Boris that he and a coworker were planning on going to the top of Etna the next day and we could ride along.  Where and how far up would depend on how safe it was and we would have to wear hard hats.  The next day we were to meet them at 10:00 at the tourist village. 

Thursday, October 18th

You could have put a bet on the fact that Erin and would be on time!  It was a sure thing!  We hopped in their car and off we went to Mama Etna, as Boris calls her.  Each volcano has a personality and Etna has one plus she creates many baby craters.  From high above the world, you can see the many, many craters over the flanks of Etna, indicating where the fissure cracks are. 

Well mom, that’s not what the flank craters mean. Just because there’s a crater, it doesn’t mean there’s a fissure, as a fissure is a crack in the surface of the Earth, that penetrates much deeper. A fissure eruption doesn’t usually form a cone, it just lets lava seep out. These cones are places that the magma from the magma chamber of Etna (or one of them, not really sure how that works) find a conduit, or a path, to the surface. After finding this conduit, the lava then usually begins to erupt violently until it forms these cones. The lava usually bursts through, and cools rapidly in the air, becoming rocks (usually) before it hits the ground. These rocks are called volcanic bombs!

So once in the car, we climb and climb, passing the cable station and going beyond...to the all-terrain area and then beyond.  It was rugged and beautiful and fascinating!  We made it to the other side and Boris pulled off.  This is where we would begin our hike. And let me tell you it was all uphill!  It was long and hard for me but eventually we made it to the crater and there was vapor/steam all around.  There were many fumaroles at the top as well.  It was an incredible site! But then we heard Mama Etna speak. She hadn't been heard for a time so Boris decided that they must go further up to the new southeast crater but we could not come, as they did not know what they would find.  So Erin and I took pictures and made ourselves comfortable but soon Mama was talking quite a bit.   To us it appeared that the output of vapor increased, but we do not know Mama Etna.  Boris soon arrived back and he was going to walk more towards the other side of this crater to try to determine who was speaking but the gases got bad and we stopped.  There may be new activity here and it is most exciting! Time will tell! 



Most of what we heard that day was just gas emission sounds. But I will swear to it that we heard one weak Strombolian eruption, as Boris later informed me that there were some weak eruptions that night in the Bocca Nuova.

We were incredibly lucky to get to go where we did, as we could see 2 of the summit craters from their bases. Well, from one of their bases, and the top of the other. The summit cone whose base we were at was the northeast crater, which is the oldest of the technically four summit craters and the tallest! The crater that we were at the top of was the Voragine, or the big mouth! This one is technically the second oldest of the four currently there, and has been quiet since 1999,when it blew and gave off a HUGE paroxysm, that was kilometers taller than the northeast crater! Though, apparently the Voragine may be waking up, as it seemed that some of the noises we heard were coming from the Voragine, and other mountain guides thought they’d heard some activity of some kind within it.

From our location while Boris and Antonio (Volcanologist-on-Duty and Volcanologist Aide) continued their exploration, we could also see just a teeny bit of the third crater, and the backside of the fourth. The third crater is the Buocca Nuova. It is now nearly entirely connected to the Voragine, as the 1999 eruption of the Voragine blew out the Diaframma (Diaphragm in English), which was the rock wall that separated the two craters. Part of the Diaframma remains intact, and is now a really cool spiny rock wall that ends mid-way through the width of the Voragine. The fourth crater is the southeast crater. This is the youngest of the four. It is where most of the activity has been for the past 10 years or more. It is also growing and changing still, though no longer as what is called the southeast crater.

The Diaframma
The Southeast Crater
The new southeast crater is my favorite! It is the fastest growing cone ever recorded! It grew within the past year or so, in a series of 25 paroxysms that all together lasted only 48 hours! It began forming on the base of the southeast crater and began, as each of the summit craters did, as a small collapse pit. Now, to make it even cooler than it already is, it has a small collapse pit on its rim, which may be the beginning of a new cone, or maybe just part of the cone, preparing to form!

The Southeast Crater on the Left and the New Southeast Crater on the Right!
It now as I must catch my plane and there is no more to do, we depart.  We move fast down through the ash.  My old arthritic knees do their best to keep up.  And soon we are having a beer at the bottom and some pizza to go with it and saying good bye to new friends.

I drop Erin off at her place and it was straight to the airport.  I actually made it all by myself!  Navigated and drove and I didn't get lost once! The airport area was a little scary but soon I recognized the rental car area.  I returned the car without problems and found the airport and where I was to check in.  But the catch is, you can only check in two hours in advance so I was a little early so I had to stand around until the person arrived. Once checked in, I could go back to the gate area.  

My flight was slightly late but soon I was in Naples and finally get the 4 Seasons, the same B & B that Erin stayed at.  I am sure glad that Erin explained on week nights the big door would not be opened so I had to use the intercom and come through the small door.  So imagine this....  Behind this big, big set of doors is a court yard area with small businesses, apartments and this B&B.  In the big, big door (semi-truck big) there is a tiny door maybe 5 feet tall that once buzzed in or if you have a key you can enter.  But on the weekend, there is a security guard and the big, big door stays open. So this is Thursday, so I get buzzed through the door and there is this guy, he gives me 3 keys. They still use the old fashion big keys! A key for the small door in the big, big door, a B&B door key and my room door key.  This key also works on the bathroom door.  The bathroom door remains locked.  Not really sure why it is kept locked but that is what I think the guy said.  Then he left.  It wasn't until the following afternoon when I got home from exploring that there was a new guy there and he mentioned Erin and collected money.  It was surprising how at home I felt and comfortable I was there.  I am now at the Ramada Inn and it appears to be in a not so good part of town, nothing around, and employees who are just doing their job and not much more.  I miss the 4 Seasons!

Oct 27, 2012

Sicily: Earthquakes, Science, Politics, and Law


This post is from the email blog of my professor, Dennis Cooper, about his 2 day site visit here in Trecastagni

Francesco Palmitessa awoke in his bed to the shaking of the earth and the collapsing of his house around him. His wife and daughter lay in bed beside him. When the terrible onslaught of falling walls and ceilings subsided, he discovered to that he was the only one left alive.

Three hundred and nine people died that morning in L'Aquila, Italy, in the 6.3 magnitude earthquake that struck in 2009, mainly from being crushed by collapsing buildings. A physician, Dr. Palmitessa and his family had evacuated his house the night before, because they feared that an earthquake was imminent. Civil defense authorities, however, tried to reassure townspeople that, despite the warnings issued by scientists and the tremors beneath their feet, the risk of an actual earthquake at that time and place was low. People were told to go into their homes, have a glass of wine, and sleep in their beds.

After the disaster, survivors like Dr. Palmitessa and, indeed, much of the public angrily demanded that those who failed to give adequate warning to victims be held responsible. Subsequently, charges were leveled, a trial was held, and on Monday, Oct. 22, the verdict was announced: seven Italian geologists and disaster experts were convicted of manslaughter and each sentenced to six years in prison.

On Tuesday morning, Oct. 23, I arrived in Catania, Sicily, and was met at the airport by my student, Erin Peterson, and her mentor, Dr. Boris Behncke. I did not know it yet, but I soon learned I had landed at the epicenter of the international headlines shaking the geological and scientific world in the wake of Monday's verdict. For Dr. Behncke is a geologist at the Catania branch of the INGV, the National Institute for Geology and Volcanoes in Italy. One of his colleagues was among the seven convicted scientists.

Dr. Behncke's job is to study and monitor the activity of Sicily's Mount Etna, one of the most active volcanoes in the world and one that has erupted many times in the past, claiming many victims from the well-populated slopes, valleys, and plains below, including the city of Catania and Trecastagni, where Boris and his wife Catherine live with their 7-year old daughter, Ida.

Dr. Boris Behncke, his wife Catherine, and his daughter, Ida
Ida and Erin playing tic-tac-toe, to the amusement of Catherine
Dr. Boris Behncke
Dr. Behncke greeted me cordially and bought me a coffee at the airport. He was obviously agitated and he came right to the point: I had arrived in the middle of a crisis at his institute, which he described to me in detail, including the story of Dr. Palmitessa (not his real name). He did not excuse the convicted scientists of downplaying the probability of the disaster, but he added that they had done so under pressure from political authorities and administrators who did not want to alarm the public of something that might not happen, or might not happen when and where it did. He agreed with my suggestion that the convicted scientists had been scapegoats.

We discussed the whole problem of prediction of natural disaster prediction, which is based on probabilities and risk, rather than certainties. The next time Mount Vesuvius of Pompeii fame erupts (and it will), geologists will know something is happening, but they won't know exactly when or where. What happens in the meantime - evacuate everyone from the Bay of Naples? When? To where? For how long? What if Vesuvius threatens to erupt for months? Hundreds of thousands of people will be temporarily housed elsewhere in Italy, in tents or camps, waiting, waiting?

And even if that all works out perfectly, and Vesuvius erupts on schedule and destroys Naples, what do people come back to? Rubble from houses that were not built to withstand coinciding earthquakes? Houses that were built in the possible path of erupted lava, rocks, gas, etc.?

The moral of the story is that prevention is much better than prediction. There is currently no good way to respond effectively to predictions of earthquakes and volcanoes. What we can do is prevent the consequences of these disasters from being so terrible. For example. we can build houses that are "quake-resistant". If Dr. Palmitessa's house had been built so, his wife and daughter might still be alive today. 

Incidentally, there is a column in the International Herald Tribune/New York Times today (Oct. 26) by Juliette Kayyem in which the significance of the convictions of the seven scientists is discussed. Interesting stuff, but I don't agree with much of what she writes. 

My student, Erin, is a majoring in Geology at UW-River Falls. She is spending two months studying volcanoes in Italy, including about one month with Dr. Behncke and his colleagues at the INGV. She is doing so in the Semester Abroad: Europe program (SAE) at UWRF. Although her subject is volcanoes, Erin is getting a much bigger and better education than she ever dreamed of. She is getting this education the only way possible - by being here (and doing a great job under the tutelage of her UWRF adviser, Dr. Ian Williams).
 
Erin and an INGV scientist checking gas emissions from Etna
Dennis Cooper, Erin, and an INGV scientist in Zafferana, Sicily
This is one example of the tremendous experiences students can have when living and studying abroad.

See you soon,

Dennis  

Oct 26, 2012

On the Island Vulcan...o


Uncle David, this one’s for you…

Captain’s log: Stardate: 66217.6. My position: approaching a mysterious island that appears to be releasing steam. I am beaming to the island’s surface. My mission: to explore this strange island, and discover the source of the steam.

The day was Monday, and I arrived at the port of Stromboli, around 10, hoping to catch the 11 o’clock boat to Vulcano. As I talked to the people within the ticket office, it became clear to me that this voyage would be difficult, once again. The boat had left early, due to high winds, if I understood the alien language. This meant that I would need to wait until around 3 for a boat to Vulcano. I proceeded to wait near the ticket office and fix the music playlists on my computer’s iTunes. I bought my ticket when the office opened, and went to the dock to wait. From that point on, the boat ride actually went as it was meant to, and so was surprisingly smooth. In passing near their systems, I saw many other strange and intriguing islands.

Europe: My current frontier. These are the voyages of the explorer: Erin. My three-month mission: to explore strange, new volcanoes, to seek out new knowledge and new wisdom, to boldly go where no UWRF student has gone before.

Captain’s log: Additional entry. Since my boat ride went smoothly, I beamed to the island without worry. I was totally unaware that I was about to run into more rough travels.

The location I was planning on residing for my four nights on this strange island, was booked through the website: airbnb.com, where I was told I would be staying in a guest home on Antonio’s property. He told me to call him when I got to the port, so I did. Upon doing so, one of those lovely little automated messages informed me that the customer I was trying to reach was not available. Mom called me in response to my frantic texts, and she emailed Antonio, telling him that I was waiting at the port and trying to reach him, but without success. I tried communication with him via text also, with no avail. Then I waited, trying to call again from time to time. After around an hour, I was beginning to feel fear again, especially since the place I was staying at was simply called “An Aeolian Villa”, so it definitely wasn’t a normal hotel…and I tried asking people if they had heard of it, or of Antonio, and no one had. So, I began wandering, and found a tourist office. I asked again if they knew of the person or place, and they didn’t…I was near tears, and the guy at the desk could tell. So he offered to let me use internet, and I took advantage of the offer. I looked up the phone number and resort page for myself, and saw the number on the screen…which had a + in front of it…Then it dawned on me, in this strange and foreign place, I was supposed to dial the +…so I tried calling Antonio again, and it worked. Of all the stupid things, I didn’t have the + in the number, and so couldn’t call. Gah!

Captain’s log: Continuing. After wandering the area I beamed to, it was clear to me that these beings speak only their own language, with very few of them understanding me when I speak to them.

Antonio called his uncle, Tanino, and instructed him to pick me up, as he, Antonio, was stuck on a different island. Tanino brought me to his home, and showed me the guest house that was reserved for my residence. In his foreign language, he instructed me that dinner was at 9, and I was to join him. During this meal, which consisted of strangely familiar pasta and tomato sauce, we had a conversation. How we managed to actually communicate with each other is unclear to me, as I could only understand a very little of his foreign language, and he could not understand mine. The only thing about that conversation that is clear to me is that we did successfully communicate. This man told me of his friend, who wrote a book about the minerals of Vulcano. I was very interested and excited to learn more, so he told me we’d go meet his friend that night. We left around 10 for the restaurant his friend owns, where I spent the entire time goggling at the book, like a silly little school girl. The book was entirely in Italian, other than mineral names in both Italian and English, at the back of the book. I also tried my first Italian coffee at this restaurant. I opted for decaffeinated, as adrenaline was already coursing through my veins, giving me enough energy to continue. Tanino also brought me to a bar, where he bought me a glass of liquor from the island.  This liquor was very smooth and very tasty. It was a new experience and a long night full of adventure. But it was time for me to retire until the sun rose again.

Captain’s log: Stardate 66223.3. My position: in the town at the sea port of the island Vulcano.

I spent the first two full days rejuvenating and trying to organize my plans, memories, and pictures and performing important maintenance tasks like cleaning clothes. On my third day on this foreign island, I finally explored more of this region. I found a pharmacy, where I bought bug spray (which was a true necessity in this land), the INGV office, which was inoperational, and I climbed to the source of the steam.  The source was more than 10 fumaroles, located on, next to, and inside of a large crater. On my first trip to this crater, I only did a little exploring and investigating, getting as close to the larger fumaroles as was allowed, and walking around the near side of the crater, before returning to home base. I also collected some samples on this trip, as I was fascinated by the mineral shapes, mostly botryoidal on a VERY small scale.

Captain's log: Stardate  66226.1. My position: atop the crater releasing all of the gas on the island of Vulcano.

I returned to the summit of this crater today, and spent much more time there, walking the entire perimeter of the crater. I was enthralled with the fumaroles and the rocks I saw, as I was unused to rocks with this texture. I got as close to the fumaroles as was allowed. It was fascinating to walk around the rim of the crater, though I wish I could have gone all the way up to the fumaroles. That would have been a much more educational experience for me, I think. However, there was a risk of asphyxiation, so I wasn't allowed farther. It was still an excellent experience for me, though.

Overall, this was a very exciting adventure, full of new experiences for me. But, my mission was complete. I had found the fumaroles: the source of the islands gas emissions. It was time for me to move to my next location to begin the next adventure.

Oct 20, 2012

Syracuse Factoids


Today's adventure is a trip to Syracuse which is further south on the island along the coast.  We aimed our little Smart car to the Archaeological Park and soon we arrived.  In this small area are the Greek and Roman Theaters. 

Erin at the top of the Greek Amphitheater - Overlooking the Archaeological Park
Syracuse was founded 733 BC by Corinthian settlers; Syracuse became one of the first Greek colonies on the island.  It quickly attained wealth and power and eventually became the strongest city in the Mediterranean.

This is just the base of a huge altar...they guess at least 50 bulls were sacrificed here at a time!
The Greek theater was huge and very impressive.  The theater would have seated 15,000 spectators.   Along the top edge of the theater in caves carved out of the rock.  These were used for tombs.  One of these was fed with water from the aqueduct and is known as the Nymphaeum.

Erin in front of the Nymphaeum
The Greek Theater
Looking down on Erin and the Greek Theater
Looking up at Erin and the Greek Theater - From where the "stage" was
The Roman Amphitheater is much older and is from the 3rd century.  It is one of the largest of its kind.  Again the area had many catacombs surrounding it that are tombs. It was really quite elaborate with many openings some for spectators and some for the contestants.  There were tunnels and passages leading up to the actual amphitheaters.  It was very interesting.

The Roman Amphitheater
In back of this area is actually a huge quarry, Latomia del Paradiso. The rock was used for the construction of Syracuse. Inside the quarry is a tall cave called Orecchio of Dioniso (Ear of Dionysius).  It was just a small cave that is really tall (and I mean really tall!) but it was fun to see and enter. 

The opening of the Orecchio of Dioniso
We enjoyed our day and had a little gelato and headed back to Trecastagni.  Tonight we will be headed toward Taormina to listen to a presentation that Boris was giving to a group of American tourist.  It was very interesting with lots of information on Etna, lots of pictures and all incorporated with music.  He is a very charismatic and dramatic speaker.  I thoroughly enjoyed it.  Erin is very fortunate, and lucky, to have Boris as a mentor.

Driving in Sicily has become easier but I am still convinced that it still takes both Erin and I to get to any given location!

Oct 18, 2012

Getting Ruined Out


On Sunday, Erin and I begin our two day journey of the island: The Great Adventure!  We head west towards Palermo.  My speedometer reads 125.... Wow! Until you remember that it is kilometers per hour... I'm only averaging 70-75 mph.  Some on my fellow drivers are going much (much, much) faster!    As we go along the motorway, we see in the distance this town on top of a tall mountain: looks cool.  So we go for the adventure and turn off the motorway.  The views are spectacular and it is amazing all the buildings they can fit into such a tiny space.  Let me tell you that there is little room left for roads!  At the far end of the mountain top, there is an old fort.  We park and we go exploring.  It turns out that this fort was key to holding Sicily from the impending invaders.  It was certainly worth the detour!

The Enna Fortress
The town of Enna, from the fortress
So now to Palermo... We entered the city and the traffic was terrifying!  After much circling, we finally find a spot to park the car.  We actually take pictures to help us find the car later... just in case.  We arrive later than expected plus it is Sunday so we don’t know what is open or really how to get to the various sites.  Then Erin spots A City Sights Sightseeing bus and 20 minutes later, we are on the bus.  What a fantastic tour that was considering we had really no idea what we were going to do and how we were going to do it! It was an unplanned surprise but those are usually the best kinds.  We loved the tour as we saw so much and learned a lot about Palermo too.  We jumped off at the Cathedral and took some pictures and walked further down to see a Piazza for a better view and pictures.  But we were hearing thunder and it was getting darker so we decided we better boogie out of there and back to the car.  We didn't make it! We quickly purchased an umbrella from a small tourist store as we left ours in the car as it was sunny and bright when we had left the car. But fortunately, we don't melt when we get wet so all was good.  We found the car, the people doubled-parked in the back of our car came back relatively quickly and it was off to the next destination!

The Cathedral from the bus
Erin and I on the bus tour
Tomorrow morning’s destination is Selinunte, Greek ruins. So we find a place about 10 miles from there and spend the night.  This hotel looks nice and is nice but like no one is there.  It is virtually empty.  I felt like I was in a Hitchcock movie.  It was weird but ended up being very nice.

The next day, we were up in time to get to Selinunte shortly after opening.  Was it ever impressive!  It had three different locations so we opted for the tram service to save time and to save our feet.  The first location was inland and was an example of temples.  Just beautiful!  Loved it!  But there is our tram driver waving at us when we emerge from the ruins.  We hop on board and we are off to the sea!  Again very awesome but now it has started raining.  But again this is just part of the adventure!  But we weren't to stay there.  We had the full package so were off to the third location, just Erin, me and the driver. He was an excellent driver and treated us very well, showing us many things. But then it was back to the sea to see that location until we saw all we wanted.  Both Erin and I were very impressed and happy that we made time to see this area of Sicily. 

The First Temple at Selinunte
Erin and another part of Selinunte
Next stop:  Agrigento: more ruins.  It was so funny… Erin and I were discussing that according to the GPS, we should be getting there soon and I look up and up on the hill are temples. You don’t see that every day in America!  And “Yeah! We were nearly there!”  But between there and me is a 5 exit round-about... Not fun and after two attempts, and much horn honking on my part (Erin is very proud of me as that is how Italians drive), I finally navigate to the parking lot.  Quite impressive ruins but I think we are tired and “ruined” out, we go through these quite fast, enjoying them but not lingering.  Then it was off to Trecastagni and her place.  What an adventure it had been and we and the car survived! 


The Round-About from Hell

The Ruins of a Temple at Agrigento
The Most Complete Temple at Agrigento